Iggs

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Now approaching its 20th year, Iggs has become a byword for quality and consistency in Edinburgh's fickle restaurant scene. Where previously the menu meandered from classical Spanish to Scottish fusion, recently it has been reinvigorated by a focus on seafood dishes. The scenic Old Town location and unobtrusive modern décor create a sense of timeless sophistication that is reflected in simply-prepared dishes allowing the ingredients (including local seasonal produce and imported Spanish delicacies) to shine. Complimentary amuse-bouches are followed by a choice of tapas-style or more conventional starters such as seared king scallops with pea and mint purée. Chorizo and smoked paprika lend an earthy depth to sweet, succulent monkfish and mussels in the main course fish stew, while the slow-braised, beautifully marbled Iberico pork is classically combined with a cider reduction and caramelised onion to delicious effect. For dessert, a slender slice of pear and frangipane tart features an almond paste so rich you may wish to push aside the comparatively bland vanilla ice-cream to fully appreciate its unadulterated charms. Such quality comes at a price, but in Iggs' case you may not begrudge it.

• High point: Elegant food with an encyclopaedic Spanish wine list
• Low point: But possibly a slightly elevated price list

The LIST Card F39

The LIST Card is a dining scheme that gives you promotional two-for-one offers at a range of restaurants in Glasgow, Edinburgh and beyond. Find out more.