Sweet Melindas

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Sweet Melindas doesn't leave you howling at the moon as she does in the lyrics to Bob Dylan's 'Tom Thumb's Blues' from which the restaurant's name is taken, but it does leave you feeling mellow and well cared for. With an admirable sourcing policy – organic and local where possible – and an eye on health (only the chocolate torte contains any wheat), everything is made on the premises. Located right next to Eddie's – arguably the best seafood retailer in Edinburgh, and the source of all the restaurant's fish – this is a lovely place. The glass-fronted dining room, with its oak floors, maroon walls and old black and white photos, creates a refined and relaxed mood. The service is impeccable and thoroughly complements the décor and atmosphere, which all helps to offset some shortcomings with the food. A starter of Thai fish-cakes with cabbage salad is fresh-tasting, but the fried squid is over-layered with sharp lemon and salt and the delicate squid is droopy in its tempura batter. A main of steamed fillet of sea bass with king prawns is more successful, but roast cod with potatoes, chorizo and tomatoes is unfortunately overpowered by the too-smoky and rubbery chorizo. There's a fine choice of desserts and accompanying wines, however, which round off a pleasant experience.

• High point: Complimentary soda bread and exotic pâté
• Low point: Tempura batter could do with some attention