Sweet Melindas

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Situated in Edinburgh's sleepy Southside, Sweet Melindas may be further from the shore than the other seafood entries listed here, but isn’t necessarily at a disadvantage; certainly not when you consider Eddie’s – arguably the capital’s best fishmonger – is just a few doors down. It’s a happy symbiosis and one that sees chef-proprietor Kevin O’Connor begin his day selecting prime specimens to transform into the light and fresh fish dishes that comprise the restaurant’s lunch, pre-theatre and dinner menus. And there’s no doubting the results are delicious: two rotund Thai fish-cakes come positively bursting with kaffir lime leaf flavour, while a generous seared tuna steak blossoms in the company of its juicy artichoke and herb salad and a delicious salsa verde that’s evidently straight from the chopping block. From the candlelight that flickers across the smart yet homely cream and claret coloured dining room, to the professional yet very natural service, there are many things that set Sweet Melindas apart from the crowd. There’s the yummy home-made tapenade and nutty bread that swiftly appears on your table for a start, though their wickedly rich valrhona chocolate tart, which brings a very competent performance to a close, could probably do it on its lonesome.

• High point: Professional, yet personal, Sweet Melindas just tries that little bit harder to please
• Low point: Not many back-up options in Marchmont so make sure you’ve made a reservation