Haldanes

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Down below Dundas Street's many private art galleries, Haldanes Scottish restaurant is frequented by New Town locals and tourists who happen upon it. Dimmed lighting and Jack Vettriano paintings adorning the walls will not be to everyone's taste and, what with the menu's theatrical theme (opening scene, second act, grande finale and so on), the precise service and warren of separate dining areas, it does have the feel of a venue pitched at a middle-aged clientele. The menu primarily showcases Scottish meats, game, fish and seafood. A pleasant ravioli of Shetland crab in a white wine and smoked salmon sauce displays the intricacies of the combinations, while rump of Scottish lamb with puy lentil and rosemary sauce is delicious in itself, though a simpler vegetable accompaniment would be more satisfying. What's available for vegetarians is very well done, with pressed terrine of goat's cheese and roasted red peppers served with a tangy marinated red onion salad balancing tastes and textures nicely. A rhubarb and ginger crumble is underwhelming, but, in stark contrast, the pistachio and honey parfait served with pan-roasted strawberries and pears is perfect in every way. Fingers crossed that you make the right choice.

• High point: Cosy corners for a romantic meal
• Low point: A pricey meal