Haldanes

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

You'd be forgiven for thinking that Haldanes doesn't want to be found. Tucked underneath the Albany Hotel, its basement entrance identical to those of the other houses in the street, who would know that such a warm welcome awaits those who pass through its doors. Ushered into the snug lounge by the efficient, affable wait staff, one can settle in with a drink before being taken through to the restaurant area – all dark wood, candlelight and thick carpeting – for the main event. It's hard to anticipate the food of a restaurant that forgoes the usual branding and trumpet-blowing, but at Haldanes the food speaks for itself. A starter of crisp haggis 'bonbons' with turnip puree and a rich whisky gravy is playful, but the menu as a whole shows a serious commitment to Scottish produce and big flavours, such as the main dish of pan-fried fillets of seabass and smoked haddock on a bed of leek mash with a silky vermouth and chive butter. From the short but sweet dessert menu the raspberry panacotta ice cream and accompanying shot of 'Scots' cheer' (a tart rhubarb liqueur) – is perhaps the most delicious.

• High point: True hospitality
• Low point: Blink and you might miss it