Fenwicks

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This neighbourhood restaurant was taken over by new owners just over a year ago and their enthusiasm to please the local clientele really shows. The setting is a split-level, airy, open space with dark panelling and wooden tables. It has a comforting Continental feel and an impressive list of dishes on offer to match the surroundings. The lunchtime menu is extensive and good value – Sunday lunch is particularly good and diners are encouraged to linger over their food. The dinner menu changes monthly and features generous portions of Scottish produce with a Mediterranean twist. The baked camembert starter with heather honey is simply excellent and could easily be shared. Other starters such as duck and wild rabbit terrine and west coast mussels with tomato and chorizo are equally satisfying. Mains include a succulent saddle of lamb with Jerusalem artichoke mash, and braised venison en crepinette with sweet potato gratin. Desserts, such as American-style baked chocolate cheesecake and one of Edinburgh's better takes on crème brûlée, more than match the quality of the other courses. The wine list is extremely reasonable so don't be afraid to splash out.

• High point: A whole baked creamy camembert – divine!
• Low point: Leaving after a leisurely lunch