Café Grande

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Long a jewel in the Bruntsfield eating scene, Café Grande continues to impress with its ability to be all things to all-comers. Whether it's a hearty breakfast you're after, a bite of lunch or just a quick cup of coffee, the cheerful staff are happy to oblige at any time of day. Tightly packed tables and deep burgundy walls effect a cosy atmosphere that's perfect for chatting with friends or reading the paper. Come evening, however, the lights are dimmed, the candles are lit, and the kitchen becomes altogether more adventurous. With a menu that changes regularly to reflect the seasons, rotating around a number of daily specials, the emphasis is on locally sourced produce which is transformed into interesting dishes with a global flavour. Among the starters, a chickpea and lentil kofta with mango and yoghurt dressing is delicately spiced and leaves you longing for more, while classic Stornoway black pudding with apple and cassis is both sumptuous and light. Freshly battered haddock is wonderfully crunchy and comes with chunky home-made chips, while a stack of halloumi and char-grilled vegetables is a filling treat for vegetarians. If you still have room for pudding, there's a mouthwatering display of sweet treats such as banoffee pie, apple strudel and crème brûlée.

• High point: Cosy, welcoming and relaxed
• Low point: Uninspiring house wine