Henderson's Vegetarian Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Still widely known as the Salad Table, the basement restaurant is the foundation of the Hendersons’ mini-empire, which also includes the upstairs Bistro, delicatessen and new art gallery. The in-house bakery’s organic breads and pastries are the stars of the breakfast show, with globally inspired hot and cold dishes continuing throughout the day. The eponymous counter features a dozen salads ranging from workaday greens, beans and slaws to more exotic wild rice and tamari or Chinese-style sprouts with tofu. Hot specials change daily, including several vegan and gluten-free options. Trays of filling bakes, crumbles and lasagnes burst with tasty vegetables, nuts and pulses, and bubble under generous toppings of tangy cheese. The large basement space is divided into three distinct areas, including the canteen-style servery and adjacent seating area recently remodelled as the clean, contemporary Janet Henderson Gallery. Down a few steps, the wine bar area harks back to the Salad Table’s Sixties roots with artsy décor, mismatched chairs, a large mural, and a decidedly groovy carved wooden bar. Here musicians appear most evenings, entertaining diners with light jazz and bossa nova, or classical guitar renditions of Beatles favourites. The mellow evening vibe is a contrast to the clamour of the lunchtime rush, demonstrating the versatility of this splendid Edinburgh stalwart.

• High point: Great variety for all appetites
• Low point: Live music can be as cheesy as the lasagne