Henderson's Bistro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Henderson's Bistro is a very different beast to its salad-proffering sibling: with its mood lighting and tight space, being here is a bit like having dinner at a posh friend's house. The kitchen is within yelling distance, the service is superb and the menu is broad. Daily specials, as well as fresh, organic ingredients have resulted in a loyal customer base. However, some of the dishes don't quite live up to the expectation provoked by the surroundings, with a few, such as the rather un-Moroccan stew, bordering on timidity. Others, such as the enchilada, are a reminder of why Henderson's enjoys its fine reputation as a centre of vegetarian dining that will satisfy even the most ardent meat-lover. The desserts are a spectacular array of flavours, with a dreamy chocolate mousse vying with a luscious mascarpone cheesecake for your affection. The wine list – naturally as organic and vegetarian as the restaurant itself – provides ample fuel for a relaxed meal in this tasteful haven. Henderson's Bistro is undoubtedly the lord of the romantic wee hidey-holes, designed for long evenings of eating and talking – a characteristic that should never be underestimated.

• High point: Fantastic atmosphere
• Low point: Limited space, so book ahead