City Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The City Café is located within the popular City Inn on Glasgow's improving waterfront. The mood is modern and understated, with leather upholstery in muted aubergine tones, sparkling glassware, linen-covered tables and an immense window frontage onto the River Clyde. Such surroundings nurture customers who seek shelter from the busy urban world outside – as does an interesting à la carte menu that features commendably Scottish ingredients in tasty and inventive dishes. A starter of plump West Coast scallops from Mallaig is enhanced with sweet candied apples, while a seductively creamy risotto features brown Orkney crab. Among main courses, a flaky fillet of halibut crusted with shards of toasted almonds is well cooked (but perhaps overwhelmed by an overly strong sage beurre blanc). But ruby red slices of tender Perthshire venison capture the essence of the hills. To finish a meal, the delicious pear crumble comes generously strewn with hazelnuts. The strong set lunch selection and a dedicated vegetarian menu give the City Café added appeal, while the agreeable atmosphere and friendly service will be appreciated by all.

• High point: Riverside terrace for eating
• Low point: Some soupy sauces