Pizza Express

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Almost a British institution, Pizza Express offers affordable food in pleasant surroundings. Edinburgh boasts five establishments, ranging from the riverside architect-designed Stockbridge branch, to the politically local Holyrood building. There are consistently high standards across the board, with well-informed service and suitably skilled kitchen staff, and though the menu may not be breaking boundaries, it does satisfy a sudden urge for good-quality, filling and fast Italian food. Items from the salad menu are served with a side of baked dough sticks and are now self-dressed following customer feedback. The six varieties, including standards such as Caesar, are ideal for those wanting a light lunch. As the name suggests, however, pizza is what the larger extent of the menu is about. Long lasting regulars are joined by the thinner based Romano pizza and sporadic seasonal offerings. Pasta lacks the spontaneity of the pizza offerings, but is still a viable alternative to a bread-based meal. A Diavolo pizza of spicy beef, pepperoni, onions, Tabasco and hot peppers is topped to satisfy even the most insatiable meat-eater. Of the vegetarian choices the Veneziana is a break from the norm with the addition of sultanas and a donation to the charity Venice in Peril. Desserts are a bit of a letdown after the sheer variety of pizza, but die-hard fans will cope with a daily-baked Strudel di Mele (how the Italians do apple pie) or Semi Freddo Reale with a shot of espresso to see you up the road.

• High point: Knowledgeable staff
• Low point: Menu fairly static