The Far Pavilions

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

There is something reassuring about a long-established restaurant located in the middle of a leafy suburb. Primarily dependent on locals for trade, such places can't afford not to have their main customer base on side. Craigleith's comfortable Far Pavilions not only has a loyal following of residents on its doorstep, but staff from the nearby Western General Hospital and Fettes police headquarters too. Taking a quick tour of India and Pakistan, the menu whisks diners off to exotic and colourful destinations such as Kerala, Islamabad and Bombay. Pistachio chicken from Delhi is delicately flavoured, subtle in its use of spices and, like the tender, lean lamb with ginger and cardamom, is generous in portion size. Although the wine list is extensive and impressive, draught Cobra hits the spot. Elegant presentation throughout makes use of stylish plates and serving dishes, with quietly efficient service allowing for full concentration on their flavoursome contents. A mixed veg selection to start ranges from crisp and light pakora to soggy sweet potato. Desserts are less successful. Bought in, their only on-site prep is an added swirl of aerosol cream. But, then again, you don't really come somewhere like this for the puds.

• High point: With a restaurant like this next door, locals can be sure property prices won't fall
• Low point: Blaring Bollywood music is a little intrusive for an intimate dining experience