La Lanterna

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses: £11
• House wine: £12.95 (1l) per bottle

• High point: Relaxed, homely atmosphere
• Low point: Over-relaxed approach to Marsala sauce
• Food served: Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm, 5.30-10:30pm. Closed Sun
• Open since: 1981
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Not a lot has changed in La Lanterna since Antonio Zaino opened its doors to hungry city centre diners and New Town residents in 1981. Diners can expect the same open-arms welcome, homely décor and heart-warming, plentiful cooking that's been on offer for the past 26 years. The substantial selection of starters, pasta, fish, meat and risotto is comprehensive without being overwhelming. Fish and seafood, while not featured heavily, are done confidently and without pretense. The plump Mediterranean prawn starter, served on a bed of lettuce in a jaunty, angled bowl, is fragrant and buttery with a smoky paprika finish. The selection of pasta, plentiful in choice and in portion, is sure to satisfy anyone with a craving for carbs. The meat dishes, most served with chips or salad, include staples such as veal Marsala - a dish of three medallions of pounded veal tenderloin, coated in breadcrumbs, but swimming in a sticky, sweet gravy that suffers from a heavy dose of corn starch. Relax over your carafe of house wine before tucking into typical, if not exceptional, tiramisu or pavlova. And sway the night away with the crooning duets of Dolly Parton and Kenny Rogers firmly planted in your head.