Atrium

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £15.50 (set lunch)
   £27.50 (set dinner) (evening meal)
• House wine: £18 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: You know you're in for something special with this menu
• Low point: Fourteen years on, the interior could do with a modern eye
• Food served: Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 6-10pm; Sat 6-10pm. Closed Sun.
• Open since: 1993
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

There's a reason why the Atrium is one of Edinburgh's most renowned restaurants - the food is simply divine. Chef Neil Forbes has affiliations to the Slow Food movement, which means the Scottish/Mediterranean menu is created with an eye not just to the quality of the ingredients he uses, but also their provenance. Forbes is regularly seen at Edinburgh's highly respected farmers' market, which takes place on Saturday mornings just round the corner from the restaurant, in the heart of the city's theatre district. Inside the décor has an Arab feel, with a canvas-tented ceiling, beautiful wooden tables and flickering candle-lit chandeliers. It would only take minor alterations to a few outdated touches for the Atrium to reclaim its place as one of the chicest establishments in town. Following a quirky and very tasty amuse bouche of mushroom and apple soup, served in espresso cups, a starter of seared scallops reveals that, with the right ingredients, a simple lemon dressing is all that's required for perfection. Mains include wild sea bass with tagliatelle, flavoured with mussels, leaks and saffron, while those seeking hardier fare can delight in the melt-on-your-fork featherblade of Aberdeen Angus beef, complemented with an unusual and very tasty horseradish mash. Superlatives drip off the tongue as you leave following a fruity dessert and the deepest dark-chocolate petit fours.