Pancho Villa's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

You don't have to be Gordon Ramsay to know that any winning restaurant needs a solid formula to work to. The folk at Pancho Villa's know this all too well and have been honing their craft midway up the Royal Mile for two decades now. Their prime location means they pick up local workers and tourists alike for a very reasonable set lunch and expansive evening menus. Inside, there's a light, breezy vibe, with tiled floors and blonde wood fittings that complement the distinctly cheery service and thrum of contemporary Latin sounds on the stereo. For starters, the quesadillas extol the complementary joys of crispy and cheesy. These are followed by cracked crab enchiladas – an inspired idea that is crying out for just a dash more citrus or chilli. The fajitas, on the other hand, are just perfect, replete with coarse, pungent guacamole and fruity salsa. And it's not often you can say this in a Mexican place, but stick around for the desserts, as there's a kick-ass chocolate pudding that's worth saving room for. Pancho Villa's has an acute understanding that it needs to be many things to many people, and while this leads to fewer opportunities to innovate on the menu, there's still a fine foundation of wholesome, earnest regional cooking on offer.

• High point: The sweet salsa with the fajitas
• Low point: Lack of chilli fire