Gusto

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Gusto, recently opened on the spot previously occupied by EstEstEst, is a stylish addition to the Italian restaurants in central Edinburgh. The sophisticated bar at the front of the restaurant is not exclusive to diners, and the dark wood, high tables, modern photography and mirrors set the metropolitan scene. The extensive menu offers a wide range of dishes to suit all tastes and budgets. Deciding between the delicious seafood, meat, pizza and pasta dishes is quite a task, but the results do not disappoint. The field mushrooms roasted with Italian sausage followed by slow braised lamb shoulder on a bed of polenta with roasted vegetables is a wise choice, although the thin, crispy-based pizzas look extremely tempting. The dishes, which you can see being prepared in the open kitchen, may not be presented to an à la carte standard, but the perfectly cooked food with distinct flavours more than compensates. In fact, the only niggle is the desserts, which are surprisingly dissatisfying, lacking in both originality and taste. If you haven't got plans for the rest of your evening it's more than likely that the rousing atmosphere in Gusto will keep you out at least for an aperitif at the bar after dinner.

• High point: Enjoyable, up-tempo atmosphere – great for large parties
• Low point: Tables placed too closely together