Merchants

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £10.95 (set lunch)
   £21.95 (set dinner) (evening meal)
• House wine: £13.95 per bottle

• High point: Professional attitude to informal service
• Low point: More bric-a-brac than a place of this class needs
• Food served: Mon-Sat noon-2pm, 6-10pm; Closed Sun
• Open since: 1985
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Surely film crews come down to this atmospheric cul-de-sac under George IV Bridge to film Dickensian dramas? Certainly, faithful customers of this long-established restaurant keep coming down here for comfortable dining which runs like clockwork. The space is large, but cosy (see what a bit of scarlet paint under low lighting can do for you) and, at Merchants, they believe that when we go out to eat, we want to relax. It follows that they make every effort to keep things simple and informal so that the diner's life is an easy one. Warm duck salad is a great starter, made with lots of shredded duck leg and just enough greenery. Medallions of beef fillet might surprise some, but for every diner who thinks wistfully of a tiny ladylike pan-fried medallion, there will be one who relishes the man-sized flavour boosted char-grilled versions supplied. Puddings might include a fun 'compare and contrast' whisky and chocolate mousse. The use of the flexible space to accommodate massive group bookings alongside smaller tables with ease is certainly impressive, but then you do get the impression that, after 22 years of trading, Merchants has seen it all.