Merchants

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Opened over 20 years ago, this Edinburgh restaurant has become a bit of an institution with a regular flow of local custom. It is tucked away down a side street in the Old Town, yet, with its red-painted stone walls, an open bar and scattered tables and chairs, it has a Mediterranean and certainly welcoming feel. The food complements these laid-back surroundings, being comforting and homely, if a little uninspired. The regularly changing set menus offer Scottish/French stalwarts in generous portions. Starters might include a hearty portion of smoked salmon in a crayfish dressing or breast of pigeon piled on to a bed of mash with a rich cherry sauce. Mains such as Angus fillet of beef, breast of chicken stuffed with haggis, and pan-fried fillet of sea bass make good use of local ingredients, although can be a bit overpowered by their accompanying sauces. A selection of home-made desserts along the lines of lemon syllabub and banoffee pie changes on a daily basis. As well as catering for smaller parties, Merchants will do weddings and other occasions both inside and outside the restaurant.

• High point: Relaxed ambience
• Low point: A bit of a shake-up needed in the kitchen