Number One

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This is no ordinary hotel restaurant, which is hardly surprising given that it is situated in the basement of the Balmoral, Edinburgh's grandest hotel. However, Number One is surprisingly cosy for a sophisticated and contemporary Michelin-starred establishment. Diners can sit back and relax on gold velour seating, surrounded by deep burgundy panelled walls, spotted with a wide collection of black-framed modern art. The show begins with a selection of amuse-bouche and perhaps a fois gras hors d'oeuvre to follow. Then comes a choice of menus, from the good-value chef's seasonal menu at £38.50, to a highly rated taster menu. If you're sticking to the à la carte, expect a fine array of Scotland's best meat and fish prepared with an eclectic twist. To start, four succulent Isle of Skye scallops are accompanied by a luxurious truffle salsa, Savoy purée and pancetta. Mains are along the lines of a medium-rare venison loin or a breast of duck set off with a plum and beetroot compote. Prepare yourself for tough decisions over the pre-dessert cheese, but make sure you leave room for one of the classic puddings, such as apple tart tatin or banana crème brûlée, all of which are prepared to perfection.

• High point: Scotland's finest food in its finest setting
• Low point: Amuse-bouche may be a Michelin star staple, but five in-between courses can limit conversation