Buffalo Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

'Native American' is very much the theme at both Buffalo Grills, which means steak, Corona and a veritable tribe of chiefs in monochrome bedecking the walls. Right next to the university, the Southside branch is unsurprisingly lively. But for the energetic staff, Stockbridge is more muted – the lights are dimmed and the space is decorated with art exhibition posters. Both branches do eminently reasonable pared-down versions of their menus at lunchtime, including several envelope-pushing burgers such as the 'hot lips', topped with chilli con carne, as well as lunchtime specials such as BLT and fries. The evening menus differ slightly, but both offer a vast choice that goes beyond Tex-Mex and steakhouse clichés. For instance, there's spritely teriyaki beef skipping on orange and ginger, or you could stick with familiar blackened chicken wings or a lasagne-like carne con queso that'll get you right into the saddle. For mains, Ranchero stir-fry is a meaty hotch-potch, while Buffalo's dozen steaks are sure-fire satisfiers, especially the rib-eye flashed with lemon and pepper. Detour down Louisiana way to explore Cajun and Creole dishes such as jambalaya, or Bourbon Street chicken with corn bread and sweet potato chips. If you've got room, Dixie-licious desserts include a buff banana cream pie and the coffee liqueur-laden Kabana crêpe.

• High point: Enthusiastic, entertaining waiting staff
• Low point: An over-reliance on chilli powder in some dishes