Café Rouge

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The name conjures up a cosy bistro on La Rive Gauche. Yet, while the chansons belt forth from the stereo and the menu features a handful of familiar regional specialities such as boeuf bourguignon, there's nothing particularly intimate about Café Rouge. The vast menu features bar staples such as sandwiches and salads and a comprehensive selection of steaks and savoury tarts alongside an array of simple classic French dishes. While these are generally tasty and attractively presented, culinary innovations are few and far between. The terrine maison starter, for instance, features a hefty block of chicken liver parfait accompanied by some slices of bread and a pleasantly sweet onion and plum chutney, while the crêpe d'eglefin is creamy and filling but a little bland. Among the mains, the confit de canard is slow cooked to a tender finish, the meat sliding effortlessly from the bone, and served with a rich orange liqueur sauce and a stack of Dauphinoise potatoes. Elsewhere, a dish of Toulouse sausages arrives with equally little fanfare, accompanied by a dollop of herb mash. With a menu that does exactly what it says on the tin, and friendly, speedy service to boot, it's no wonder that this venerable establishment keeps packing 'em in.

• High point: The amiable service
• Low point: The food lacks panache