Stravaigin

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With more foodies demanding the best of world flavours without the carbon footprint to match, never has Stravaigin's motto 'think global, eat local' been more appropriate. The ever-evolving menu ticks all the latest food fashion boxes, and features carefully sourced local ingredients and Scottish staples given a modern and sometimes exotic twist by Aussie chef Daniel Blencowe (salmon, for example, may come from Orkney but have Vietnamese flavours). An intriguing glimpse into the bustling kitchen is provided at the foot of the stairs from the pub above (which offers the same menu), while muted colours and natural wood in the restaurant make for a calm and relaxed atmosphere no matter how busy it gets. Quality ingredients are treated thoughtfully and creatively. A dish of venison carpaccio, with thin slivers of flavoursome marinated meat fanned around a small stack of tangy pickled turnip, makes for a light but satisfying starter, while a sumptuous main of saddle of rabbit is stuffed with plump, firm green lentils, wrapped in parma ham and served in a savoury jus with caramelised onions and a smudge of salsify purée. A creamy, aromatic chicken curry has meat falling off the bone into a richly spiced sauce and comes with a roti and fragrant pilau rice to help mop up the juices.

• High point: A local treasure with a global vision
• Low point: Service a bit muddled when faced with big groups