The Khukuri Nepalese Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It would be easy to walk past The Khukuri on a daily basis and not notice it's there. Which is a shame, because this Nepalese restaurant has much to offer. From outside, there's no sign of the seating within, but once you enter, a warm welcome is assured. Hands pressed together, head bowed, the waiting staff bid you hello and goodbye, which – along with the copious photos, artefacts and music – evokes a real sense of travelling to another land. Chef Dharma Maharjan trained as a herbalist in Nepal, and infuses his cuisine with a healthy cocktail of herbs and spices. The menu takes standard fare, then presents it in a range of styles. So the chicken, lamb or vegetable curries come in nine strengths, from korma to vindaloo. The samundra bata ('from the sea') section offers king prawns cooked 11 different ways. Or you can choose from nine types of biryani. For the more adventurous, the house specialities are served in a Nepali pot called a tashala, a tantalising plate replete with vegetables, lamb or chicken, rice, lentils, chutney and popadums. Or for a special occasion, give them 24 hours notice and order the £80 Khukuri rann – a whole leg of lamb cooked Nepalese-style.

• High point: Nepalese herbs and spices
• Low point: Easily overlooked exterior