Strata

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Strata offers two different experiences. An intimate cocktail bar occupies the ground floor, while the mezzanine space serves as an informal dining room with a handful of tables and plenty of twinkling candles. A relatively small but still ambitious menu focuses of fresh Scottish produce with Mediterranean and Asian flavours. Among starters, fleshy king prawns are served in a martini glass with crunchy iceberg lettuce, accompanied by an unusual watermelon and cucumber sorbet that is sweet and tangy. Expect main courses such as red snapper in Thai green sauce or a roast lamb shoulder with honey-glazed carrots and parsnips. Chicken breast with a spicy black pudding mash comes surrounded by a ruby red wine sauce that is full of colour (if lacking real depth). A flavoursome Scottish cheese platter – typically brie, blue and cheddar – arrives at correct room temperature, accompanied by mini Arran oatcakes and apple chutney with a hint of spice. Strata offers a well-priced fixed menu at all times along with the à la carte options, meaning you don't have to break the bank to try some interesting food.

• High point: Interesting flavour combinations
• Low point: Noise from bar