Strata

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £12.50 (lunch)
   £14.50 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12.95 per bottle

• High point: Food arriving promptly
• Low point: Ending up in a poky corner table with view of the wall
• Food served: Mon-Sun 11.30am-10pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sun 10.30am-midnight
• Private dining: Up to 35 covers
• Open since: 1999
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The first thing that might strike you about Strata is the mural-size design work behind the bar: khaki green and white, with weather chart isobars and circular swirls of arrows. The principal dining area is on the mezzanine above. Here, diners may have a view of either the busy bar below or some Artexed-like walls with a stylised metal swirl of light fittings peeking over the top. The evening menu is streamlined with an emphasis on keeping things fresh and simple: whether tempura king prawns, Shetland mussels or chicken with smoked Applewood cheese. Parma ham bruschetta is presented with some care, with fresh peppery rocket, plum tomatoes and basil oil. Breaded brie with winter fruit compote has a firm and rather over-processed texture, but is pleasant nonetheless. With a nod to the Mediterranean, a small fillet of seabass sits atop crushed potatoes with sun-dried tomato and olives. An accompanying red pepper cream sauce is alive with fresh flavours, though it seems to be missing the thyme described on the menu. A comprehensive daytime selection targets all budgets with light starters, sandwiches, burgers, pastas and more substantial dishes, including herb-crusted salmon and Thai curry.