Barioja

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

As the younger, funkier sibling to Iggs restaurant next door, Barioja serves traditional tapas in relaxed, style-bar surroundings. With large picture windows overlooking Calton Hill, their promise to bring you 'Spanish sunshine, whatever the weather' may be somewhat over-optimistic, but the service is warm and friendly and the tasty, vibrant food should also raise a smile. The menu features a tempting selection of fish, meat and vegetable tapas, including decent versions of classics such as grilled sardines, meatballs and spicy chorizo, plus interesting daily specials. Highlights include prawns served in a punchy garlic, paprika and sherry sauce, and pan-fried morcilla that will come as a revelation to those more familiar with the 'full Scottish' variety of black pudding. The flexibility of the tapas menu, supplemented by a selection of sandwiches, sharing platters and paellas, should enable Barioja to satisfy most appetites without stretching too many budgets. Groups are particularly well catered for, with a separate dining area downstairs and a party menu offering a generous selection of tapas for £16.95 per head. Jugs of sangria and large bottles of Spanish cider are great for sharing, or there's an excellent but pricey wine list to choose from.

• High point: Something for everyone on the mix and match menu
• Low point: But the wine list could blow the budget