All Bar One

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Once upon a time, All Bar One was the fresh-faced, exclusive bar-about-town frequented by apple flirtini-sipping suits. While never quite diverting the gastro-pub experts, it did embed the wine bar-diner concept in the nation's consciousness. But the 1990s are now quite a long time ago and 'Glory Days' may have faded from the soundtrack. Situated right at the heart of the bustling New Town, George Street's All Bar One has high, arched ceilings over its long tables and benches: for some it's temple-like and for others it's like a school dinner hall. The bar is often busy, especially at weekends, and the dining protocol is just a little on the confusing side. Are you meant to wait for the staff to seat you? Should you order at the bar or wait to be served? The menu is a roll call of fairly standard modern pub grub with a few tantalising suggestions, offering dishes such as tiger prawn skewers deep-fried in coconut tempura and pan-fried Atlantic sea scallops. In reality, the tempura resembles Yorkshire pudding mix and the scallops aren't convincingly fresh. Chorizo and chicken skewers arrive just on the wrong side of char-grilled while baked camembert with cranberry sauce is served with an overwhelming doorstep of a ciabatta. Having said that, the staff are friendly and eager to please, and the emphatic size of the main-course 'big plates' and side orders sends the munchies packing. The city's second branch, at Exchange Plaza, enjoys the patronage of West End workers but lacks the personality of its George Street sister.

• High point: The sheer abundance of straw fries
• Low point: Too often the food suffers from a lack of attention to detail