All Bar One

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £12 (lunch)
   £12 (evening meal)
• House wine: £10.90 per bottle

• High point: Chain pub apathy doesn't apply to a surprisingly diverse and accomplished menu
• Low point: As drinking establishments, both branches are a little soulless
• Food served: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm; Sat/Sun 10am-10pm
• Bar open: Mon-Thu 11am-midnight; Fri 11-1am; Sat 10-1am; Sun 10am-midnight
• Open since: 1997

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The All Bar One chain has long been considered the domain of besuited business high-fliers, and the location of both of Edinburgh's branches does nothing to dispel the notion. While collars, ties and neatly-shined brogues are the staple dress items of many diners, neither place is a laddish free-for-all designed to repel 'civilians'. Whether in Exchange Plaza's modern development or George Street's spacious Georgian hall, you'll find the atmosphere to be as brisk but relaxed as the décor. Even more importantly, the food is of an impressive standard, particularly when measured against most other bar fare. The tapas menu doubles as a starter selection, with dishes available at discounted prices in combinations of three or six. Among the Latin, Italian, Eastern and Western choices lie chicken satay, beetroot gravlax, brittle quesadilla sandwiches filled with chicken and Monterey Jack, and a trio of full shell-on langoustines. The mains are very reasonably priced but not skimpy, with a gently chilli-spiced chicken, parmesan and pepper linguine offering a lighter option, while the beef burger - presented in a crispy sesame bun with chunky home-made fries - is reassuringly prepared from scratch. The apple strudel - a spring roll-shaped, fruit-filled filo, accompanied by clotted cream - make a worthy finale to such a well-executed meal.