Le Sept

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

One of Edinburgh’s longest established French restaurants, Le Sept has been a favourite in the Old Town since 1983. Its no-nonsense, straightforward menu works to a formula that has been tried and tested over the years by a loyal staff team and strong customer base. Key to such approach is striking the balance between comforting familiarity and keeping up the energy levels to make things special. Lacklustre lunchtime French onion soup doesn't quite make it, although the alternative soup choice – fish and tomato based, with chunky salmon, tuna and sea bass – is a more colourful option. Famed for its selection of savoury crepes, Le Sept’s main courses also encompass standards such as salmon, duck and mussels, the latter, with white wine and saffron cream sauce, arriving in a generously sized pot accompanied by firm, crisp fries. Blue cheese and mushroom tart has deliciously crumbly pastry that partners well with the salad of shredded raw veg and leaves sitting alongside it. Crepes are back on the menu at dessert stage, along with ice-cream, plain lemon sorbet and a chocolate and Cointreau terrine which, while disappearing off the plate with unabashed ease, is disappointingly bereft of any hint of its alcoholic kick.

• High point: Great location for tourists
• Low point: A bit weary round the edges