Visit La Garrigue, arguably the most authentic French restaurant in town and be transported into the Languedoc region of France. Enjoy the food, sample the 'Terroir wines' and the warm service. Winner 'Les Routiers Guide; Scottish restaurant of the year'.

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £16 (set lunch)
   £29 (evening meal)
• House wine: £17 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Excellent, from start to finish
• Low point: Vegetarians may feel a bit stigmatised
• Food served: Tue-Sat noon-2pm, 7-10pm. Closed Sun/Mon
• Private dining: Up to 34 covers
• Open since: 1986
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Let's get the criticisms out the way: the Vintner's Rooms could have a better brand of mineral water. That's it. Everything else is exceptional, from the pre-dinner olives at the bar (complement them with Manzanilla sherry) to the moment you resist the urge to lick the last of your dessert from the plate. Fittingly, the wine list is comprehensive and reasonably priced; given its length and absence of tasting notes, you might want to look at it on the restaurant's website, where you can also book and see sample menus. Although no vegetarian options are listed, they are always available. Meat-eaters can anticipate such dishes as rare pigeon breast of almost carnal intensity, the bird's legs served alongside in some truly exceptional pastry. Indeed, it is the quality of the accompaniments that stands out: from potato rosti to shredded radish, if it is on the plate then it is worth eating, be it animal, vegetable or mineral. The atmosphere in the elegant dining room is sedate but unstuffy, although, regrettably, the occasional table of expense account diners can be a little intrusive. Thankfully, there is more than enough on your plate and in your glass to help make you blissfully unaware.