Metropole

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

There’s something vaguely Parisian about the signage, bare wood tables, ceiling fans and leather banquettes of Metropole Café, but you won’t find nouvelle cuisine here. Serving arguably the best breakfast rolls in Edinburgh (stuffed with bacon and sausage), Metropole offers full-on food all day. It’s no surprise that it’s always busy with families, office workers or the odd regular with a laptop enjoying infusions of strong coffee while picking at a plate of tapas that includes chorizo, salami, mozzarella and hummus. Choose at the counter and the food is delivered to your table. ‘Lite’ bites include baked potatoes, nachos and bagels, with a choice of toppings, but for a real meal deal, there’s meaty cottage pie, with a huge yellow moon of cheesy mash, hot and spicy chilli or hearty macaroni cheese. Tempting puddings and snacks include millionaire’s shortbread, muffins or chewy pecan pie to accompany a towering mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream and a small herd of marshmallows. It may be shabby chic, but at these prices it’s no wonder Metropole is a Newington institution.

• High point: Cheesy mash
• Low point: Gloomy lighting