Glass & Thompson

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Glass & Thompson's regulars were doubtless unsurprised to find their favoured haunt nominated for Most Stylish Café at the 2007 Scotland with Style awards. With its gleaming wood floor, muted silver tables and sedate lighting it easily deserves such an accolade. The staff – like the cashmere-clad clientele – are impeccably dressed and mannered and food is a winning combination of freshness, flavour and elegant presentation. Platters are a central component of the menu, with cheeses, meats, pâtés and hummus served with either oatcakes or bread. The chicken liver pâté is rich, full-flavoured and freshly made, accompanied by a simple salad and plenty of soft white bread. The hummus, occasionally too bland elsewhere, is here refreshingly piquant, the earthy chickpeas balanced with just a whisper of chilli. There are also a few hot options, such as a savoury tart filled with goat's cheese and aubergine, and a delectable range of desserts, perhaps a tangy and moist tarte au citron, firm on the outside and soft and sweet in the middle. Some grumble that for café fare Glass & Thompson is a little expensive, but for fresh, quality ingredients, beautifully and generously put together, in a warm and relaxed atmosphere, it is an absolute bargain.

• High point: Everything made on the premises
• Low point: Few hot options