Restaurant at the Bonham
- Food served: Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 6.30–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6.30–10pm. [Extended in Festival].
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 9
- Private dining: Up to 30 covers
- No. overnight rooms: 48
- Also offers: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access
- Music on stereo: Jazz
- Capacity: 60
- Largest group: 70
- Open since: 1998
- Average price:
£16.50 (set lunch)
£34 (evening meal) - House wine: £16.50 per bottle
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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).
This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.
An unmistakable boutique hotel vibe permeates the Restaurant at the Bonham. Elegant period features (bay windows, lovely panelling) and brash contemporary touches (oversized lampshades, funky wallpaper) sort of cancel each other out, creating an aesthetic that’s somehow both luxurious and bland. Fortunately, food here is superb. Fiddly items on the menu make it sound a mite fussy, but suggestions of overwrought cooking are dispelled by the quality of each dish. Fresh seafood sweetness marries with an unctuous pig's trotter croquette in a delicious scallop starter, while a main of guinea fowl, with its rich meat, spicy cumin jus and herby barley risotto, is a triumph. Desserts are best of all: ice cold nougat glace with hot marshmallow is sublime, while a steamed orange pudding is as soothing as a lullaby. It’s not flawless – an overcooked fillet of halibut perhaps tells of a lack of real quality control at the pass – but it is very good, and a plethora of deals and set menus means that dining at the Bonham can also be a real bargain.
- High point: Can offer serious quality for the money
- Low point: Can’t quite shake the reminders of the hotel environment
Reviews of Restaurant at the Bonham (35 Drumsheugh Gardens, Edinburgh)
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