The Witchery by the Castle

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Witchery must have witnessed a fair few proposals over the years. The combination of oak-panelled walls, red leather upholstery, tapestries and antique brass candlesticks makes the atmosphere in the historic 16th century building nothing short of magical. With its decorative painted ceiling and arched windows, the Secret Garden annexe, which doubled the restaurant's capacity when it opened ten years on, is no less enchanting. While thousands of couples are prepared to part with their salaries to dine here, staunch foodies might suggest this has lessened the pressure for the kitchen to compete with Edinburgh's finest. That said, standards are certainly not below par and there is plenty of fine Scottish produce to savour. A starter of lightly smoked pink Barbary duck breast is neatly presented next to potato and pancetta terrine. To follow, a generous hunk of peppered monkfish served atop succulent roast pork belly is well worth prizing from the clutches of its accompanying red-clawed crayfish. Desserts show equal ingenuity, the sweetness of glossy pear tart tatin offset against the savoury overtones of Roquefort ice-cream. Coupled with spot-on service and a wine list that would make Dionysus weep, it's no surprise that James Thomson's first and most fabulous creation remains such a success.

• High point: Deserving of its status as the capital's most atmospheric eatery
• Low point: Reputation has relinquished the need to strive for gastronomic perfection