Off the Wall

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

With all its nooks and crannies, not to mention the long, steady descent from castle to palace, the Royal Mile has no end of different perspectives. One of the more serene viewpoints is through the leaded windows of Off the Wall restaurant, located up a curving flight of stone steps not far from John Knox House and the Storytelling Centre. Among the more elegant and refined of the capital's dining spots, the menu reflects chef David Anderson's confident and unfussy use of the Scottish larder. Most dishes are unpretentious yet full of rich flavours. Rib-eye of beef comes with roast veg, fondant potatoes and a red wine and shallot jus, saddle of venison with a port sauce and dauphinoise potatoes. Desserts offer the liveliness of coconut tart and the enveloping comfort of toffee and date pudding in a caramel sauce. Given its location, it's a popular spot for tourists hoping to encounter elevated Scottish cuisine as well as an elevated viewpoint, though Off the Wall has always carried a strong following among local diners of taste.

• High point: High standards and modest approach
• Low point: Never the most buzzy of venues