Jacksons

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

In the heart of Edinburgh's tourist district, Jacksons is one of the city's most established restaurants. Inside, the tapestry-clad stone walls and wrought-iron torches help create a cosy atmosphere. High-backed engraved wooden chairs with embroidered coverings give the feel of a laird's manor, and this is accentuated by one of the city's most impressive malt whisky lists. The menu is similarly extensive and, unlike most Scottish restaurants, has strong vegetarian options in the form of a full meat-free set menu which you can mix and match with the à la carte. A light starter of sun-blushed tomato and artichoke loaf sets you up for one of the more substantial mains, while there's also a selection of typical fishy and meaty options. Jacksons offers all the classics: lamb, monkfish, beef, venison and sea bass, and all are prepared to a good, though perhaps slightly dated, standard. There are some odd choices too, such as a lovely piece of venison overpowered by Parmesan and basil-coated fettuccini. Desserts come with specially recommended dessert wines, or you can try a glass of Ramos Pinto Port with cheese. The deep chocolate fondue is also definitely worth a shot. The set lunch menu is very good value, making Jacksons an ideal place at which to impress clients.

• High point: Whisky galore in a traditional Scottish setting
• Low point: Dishes not quite as elegant as the décor