The Grain Store

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Overlooking one of Edinburgh's most attractive streets, the Grain Store is a capital institution, and has been under the stewardship of chef Carlo Coxon and manager Paul MacPhail for more than 15 years. A warm greeting awaits you after the climb up from street level into the atmospheric, stone-walled dining room, a selection of alcove-like rooms with a wonderful intimacy that creates quite simply one of the nicest dining atmospheres in town. The highly original menu is testament to Coxon's enthusiasm for the job. Some of Scotland's finest fish and meat is on offer in an eclectic menu of Loch Creran oysters, scallops, venison, hare, rabbit and pigeon. A generous portion of oozing foie gras with a fig jam is a wonderful starter if you don't fancy the oysters. A lovely sea bass fillet comes with a refined orange braised fennel and hand-made pesto, but game lovers will adore the tender hare cooked rare and perfectly accompanied by a plum tart tatin. Dessert is a must, with one of the best apple pies ever – another tart tatin inlaid with caramelised apple and cinnamon – or try the dark and deliciously smooth chocolate and espresso fondant tart.

• High point: An unusual, creative and wonderfully presented menu
• Low point: Old buildings can be drafty