The Grill Room

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

The Grill Room is the posh restaurant in the Sheraton. A recent refit saw the tartan-themed décor replaced by a more gracious arrangement of plain paint colours against the wooden panelling and a selection of fine monochrome Edinburgh stills. Although it's located in an internal room whose windows see only another area of the hotel, there is no pressure on space; the tables are large and the chairs are well appointed. At lunch, the table d'h´te targets the local business market. At dinner, the grill menu includes some far-flung steak choices - Inverurie steak is joined by Australian wagyu and organic beef from Kentucky. Care and attention is lavished on other mains, too, such as roast veal fillet with sweetbreads or langoustine-wrapped roe-deer. Puddings are spectacular - the simple (good rice pudding) and the silly (assiette of four chocolate desserts) are executed with equal amounts of skill and spun sugar. It's an expensive restaurant and not everything is a hit, but many dishes are special and there are some real professionals working the room to ensure that the evening is a success. This year also sees the debut of a chef's table in the kitchen for small groups.

• High point: Very classy puddings
• Low point: 'Helpfully' arranged wine list could frustrate those who know what they want