Smoke Stack

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Smoke Stack successfully serves as a reliable, reputable restaurant for its New Town neighbourhood. Low-set lighting subdues the now nearly-retro 90s décor of pared-down wood floors, deep reds, and flourishes of ironwork. Between a reception space and larger dining room through the back is a candle-lit corridor of tables for two, covering everything from Friday night boisterousness to secluded tête-a-têtes. Likewise the menu has an eye on many markets, from slap-'em-down steaks to straightforward Tex-Mex, café-Med and Scottish. Start with anything from honey-roast ribs to Cullen skink, a well-shredded salad bowl of bacon, Roquefort and pine nuts, or solid shrimp tails in floaty batter with sweet chilli dip. Char-grilling is the central theme, so sink your chops into a Boston-cut rump, tuna steak, king prawn kebab or a peppery slew of fajitas. Those with an aversion to the char-grill have several alternatives such as crêpes and simple pasta. There's a refreshing freedom about the choice of accompaniments too, from a baked spud with garlic butter to salad or rice. Desserts such as white chocolate cheesecake and banoffi pie are a long schlep away from home-made, but the ebullient service throughout ensures an extremely agreeable experience.

• High point: Something for everyone
• Low point: Mass-catered desserts