Cozi Bar & Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Cozi's basement space, with its low ceilings and open fire during the winter months, is a welcome change from the minimalist sterility of many style bars. The small bar is a homely jumble of stacked glasses, odd bottles and barflies nestled among the beer taps. The rest of the area is dotted with solid, low wooden furniture and a jolly mix of drinkers and diners. The staff are young and hip, and the service is friendly and informal. Food options are honest and hearty. Belhaven smoked trout is deliciously smoky-sweet, accompanied by oatcakes but missing the caramelised red onion marmalade promised by the menu. The bruschetta features that essential fresh crunch and makes an appetite-whetting starter. Chicken Rabbie Burns is stuffed with haggis, wrapped in bacon, covered with a whisky cream sauce and accompanied by lots of creamy mashed potatoes. The chicken is juicy and tender, the haggis is spicy and the sauce brings the ingredients together well. Up for a challenge? Try the Cozi burger – beef burger, chicken breast, cheddar, bacon and onion rings with chips and salad. For dessert the Dime bar cake is sugary and chocolaty, accompanied by crunchy caramel chips and ice-cream.

• High point: Lives up to its name – cosy and convivial atmosphere
• Low point: Limited space