Whighams Wine Cellars

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Tucked away only feet from the madding crowds of Princes Street, Whighams is a venue with something of a split personality. The original, cave-like wine bar continues to excel at tempting the after-work crowd with its extensive wine list, while the brighter, more modern restaurant on the other side of the bar shines with its menu of good quality fresh seafood. Oysters served with raspberry vinaigrette and smoked trout salad with cucumber and dill mayonnaise are both simply presented and delicious. Likewise, a steaming bowl of mussel and bacon chowder is perfectly seasoned and rich without being too filling for a starter. Disappointingly, however, a daily special of smoked haddock and spring onion risotto would have benefited from coming off the heat a few minutes earlier. Unlike the impressive wine list, desserts are not Whighams' strong point – a white chocolate and raspberry tart is heavy and flavourless – but the generous cheeseboard perhaps makes up for that. Service is quick and efficient, making this an ideal place to come for a working lunch or a few moments' time out from hectic shopping.

• High point: Impressive, well-informed wine list
• Low point: Uninspired vegetarian options seem like an afterthought