Whighams Wine Cellars

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

For more than 25 years this atmospheric basement bar has been a favourite destination for wine-lovers in the West End. Subdued lighting and benches squeezed into the old vaulted cellar archways give the original half of the place a conspiratorial air, which couldn't contrast more with the buzzing, bright restaurant on the other side of the bar. The comprehensive wine list caters for wide-ranging tastes and with more than 30 labels available by the glass it's no surprise that this place pulls in both the after-work crowd and weary shoppers. Another draw is the menu, coupled with swift service well suited to a business lunch. Seafood dishes are the star attraction, with the fresh flavours of fine smoked salmon and a generous chilled seafood platter allowed to shine with just a squeeze of lemon and some bread and butter. However, despite a pleasing curry flavour and plenty of soft, flaking haddock, a daily special of kedgeree is slightly overwhelmed by a creamy sauce. Passion fruit and mango cheesecake with kiwi sorbet perhaps ventures a tropical fruit too far, but the sumptuous cheese board does the business, especially with a glass of port.

• High point: Vast selection of wine to sample by the glass
• Low point: Disappointingly bland vegetarian dishes