Hectors

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Hectors is a real neighbourhood bar whose clientele reflects the diversity of the area. There's a mix of youthful students, thirtysomething couples and older folk enjoying a relaxing evening in vibrant, smart and welcoming surroundings. It's a difficult trick to pull off, but Hectors has been attracting such a varied crowd for nearly 20 years. Tables can be at a premium, but if you can find space among the sofas, chairs and stools for a meal, there's a fine selection of bar classics to choose from. The sirloin steak comes with fries, which are well cooked, chunky and crisp on the outside. The steak is tender and tasty, although the 'medium' option is actually closer to 'well done'. The menu also features a burger that's as chunky as the chips, succulent and well seasoned. Both dishes benefit from the use of quality meat, cooked simply and served in satisfying portions. An otherwise decent chocolate pudding loses some of its impact due to arriving late, cooling and in a liquid pool of what was once an enticing scoop of ice-cream. Still, in such a busy bar, the odd dip in service can just about be forgiven if the venue steps up to the mark elsewhere. Hectors succeeds in doing just that.

• High point: An effortless ambience puts you at ease
• Low point: Lackadaisical service