Montpeliers

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Montpeliers has long been a Bruntsfield favourite, the regular clientele ranging from well-heeled students and local residents to footballers. A recent makeover both outside and in means there are no signs of the place resting on its laurels style-wise: the décor is bright and classy, and includes modern prints and beautiful, unusual flowers. Incredibly busy weekends and evenings can make for a party atmosphere but perhaps not the ideal place for a romantic meal. It's perfectly OK to pop in at any time of day for a coffee or something stronger, such as one of the bar's fine cocktails. Weekend brunch is also particularly good, with a full meat or veggie grill and a potent Bloody Mary that's guaranteed to perk you up after a big night. Sadly, outwith breakfast time the food tends to be slightly disappointing, almost as if the menu is making promises it can't keep. All the pub grub staples are here, from fajitas and burgers to salads and pasta. Breaded cheesy mushrooms make for a crunchy and tasty starter, and the goat's cheese and beetroot salad is also a good option. A salad of char-grilled tuna is disappointingly bland, but is more than made up for by the sumptuous crème brûlée with fresh berries. Overall then, this is a quality establishment with plenty to offer, but perhaps more care needs to be taken in the kitchen if it's to compete in the food stakes.

• High point: Possibly the best place in town to recover from a big night
• Low point: Just try to find a table on a Saturday night