Mouton Noir

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The minimalist décor of pale olive walls, wooden floor and tables, thick black cotton napkins and black candles in this small restaurant, which opened in October 2007, seems at odds with the very non-minimalist substantial helpings of traditional French food. Thick French onion soup with Comté croutons looks the part but lacks flavour, a charge which can't be laid a the door of a densely packed bowl of Scottish mussels, steamed with dill, cream and wine to which smoked salmon makes an interesting and very aromatic addition. Slices of pheasant with mushroom sauce, savoy cabbage and bacon has a good balance of flavours and textures, while the turkey casserole's massive chunks of meat loom like icebergs in a pool of tarragon and cream sauce. Almond and pear tart is served beautifully warm with a thin pastry crust which allows the tender pear and gooey almond filling to shine, while chocolate mousse with Grand Marnier is seductively rich and dark. The cheese selection is hit or miss: if French owner David Mouton has managed a recent foray to France to stock up it will be interesting. If not, it may be worth heading straight to dessert or coffee.

• High point: Comforting large portions
• Low point: Some dishes need a bit more 'le oomph'