All Bar One

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2008 edition.

With floor-to-ceiling windows on the corner of St Vincent and West Nile streets, All Bar One is well placed to watch the world go by over a drink or a bite. Such is its bustling nature, however, it seems as if few people have time to linger at its chunky wooden tables. Despite being commonly perceived as another faceless chain outlet, this large venue has some individualist touches for the office workers and young professionals that frequent it. These include a range of draught and bottled beers from as far afield as Peru, including wheat and fruit varieties, and an extensive wine list featuring suggestions of accompaniments for the various tapas dishes available. The all-day menu also includes salads, sandwiches and burgers, and three courses drawing from a wide range of cuisines. Intriguing options include decent pan-fried scallops on a hill of pea purée and topped with two slices of crisp prosciutto, and yakitori chicken with a sticky rice cake, which turns out to be a little bland. A big bowl of leaf salad and grilled duck breast – dressed with a tangy ginger, chilli and soy sauce – has lots more life.

• High point: Large variety of nibbles to share
• Low point: Only two desserts