Vittoria

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Professional waiting staff, the babble of Italian voices and food that remains loyal to its roots – close your eyes and it could be Lucca rather than Leith. Vittoria on the Walk has become an Edinburgh institution over the last four decades and now, for diners in the city centre, the same menu is on offer at the impressive two-storey Vittoria on the Bridge. There is a choice of more than 100 dishes including non-Italian specials that are a legacy of the early years, and an increasingly adventurous wine list. But, it is starters such as polpette (meatballs in a tangy tomato sauce) or caprino grigliato (grilled goat's cheese on a bed of perfectly roasted vegetables) that capture the authentic flavour. A mouthful of pollo san valentino combines chicken pieces with peppers, tomatoes and olives and is served with rice, bringing a ray of Mediterranean sunshine, regardless of the weather outside. Alternatively, the balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing in tonno con pepe e acete is a perfect balance for the tuna steak. Ample portions leave little space for dessert, but it's worth finding room to finish the meal with a lemon tart that is just like nonna used to make.

• High point: Now also open in the city centre
• Low point: Loud 80s music spoils the authentic atmosphere