Lazio

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Despite a recent change of ownership, Lazio continues to offer the same consistent standards that have served it well for more than two decades. Its location, close to the city's financial district, ensures a steady flow of lunchtime diners taking advantage of the fixed-price offering. Evenings bring a mixed clientele, ranging from theatre-goers, businessmen and, later on, revellers attracted by its long opening hours. Booths in the front of the restaurant are popular with some regulars, but the airy dining space in the rear is where most prefer to dine. While the menu can best be described as lengthy, the multitude of dishes falls into several broad categories. For starters, a traditional caprese salad contrasts with an innovative dish featuring mushrooms stuffed with pâté and served in a rich, creamy sauce. Pizza or pasta – or a half-and-half combination – are reliable options served with gusto by passionate waiters. Among the meat options is chicken Cleopatra, served in a sauce that combines white wine, tomatoes and garlic that hits the mark. Desserts feature many of the established Italian favourites, but, for almond lovers, affogato di Amaretto, a mix of ice-cream, almonds, Amaretto biscuits and liqueur is sure to please.

• High point: Consistent quality of food and cheerful service
• Low point: Television not to the taste of all diners