The Grill on the Corner

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its shiny black wooden furniture, mirrored surfaces and private booths, each with their own rather decadent crystal chandelier, this luxurious restaurant has a distinct air of the moneyed 1980s. The time travel effect is further enhanced by the occasional table of stripy-shirted businessmen feasting on huge platters of chateaubriand and lobsters while ordering wine from the pricier end of the menu. Predominantly fishy starters include intensely garlicky king prawns served in small pans, resting on larger wooden boards and accompanied by some very good bread – a thoughtful presentation that runs throughout all the dishes. The menu moves on to meaty mains from the grill: ostrich burgers, baby back ribs, suckling pig or, if the markets are up, an 8oz kobe beef fillet for £50. (For those feeling the crunch there's a kobe burger at almost quarter of the price.) The sweet, charred 14oz ounce rib-eye is delicious, even more so when given a kick from the sharp béarnaise sauce. On Friday and Saturday nights look out for the additional 'grill board' of specials, which changes weekly. There's an interesting range of wines by the glass – but to celebrate you'd almost feel out of place with anything less than the vintage Krug.

• High point: Well-presented food
• Low point: Can be businessmen-heavy