Ristorante Gennaro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The busy Grassmarket area attracts a mix of tourists, revellers and locals, and the same can be said of this family-run establishment. It claims to offer a true taste of Italy, and that starts from the moment you are greeted by one of a clutch of waiters with accents as strong as Gennaro's espresso. Tables in the front dining area enjoy the buzz of the venue, while the atmosphere in the rear section is slightly more subdued. Antipasti feature classic Italian dishes such as caprese, a whole buffalo mozzarella with the usual tomato and basil accompaniment, or select from a range of bruschetta – the capangnola is a delicious mix of peppers, olives and capers served cold on warm toast. Alongside pizzas and pasta, other traditional options populate the list of main courses, with vitello saltimbocca that ticks all the boxes, or a mildly spicy chicken diavolo. Meat dishes are served with chips and a rather limited salad, which is overpowered by celery. Desserts feature a chilled lemon or orange filled with ice-cream that is a refreshingly light finale, or you could go native and choose the tartufo classico, a zabaglione centre coated with chocolate that is loyal to its Italian roots.

• High point: Slick service by efficient waiters
• Low point: Limited salad accompaniment